The sultry air of midday Tennessee hung in the overcast sky. Beneath, the virid hills of trees stretched to the rolling horizon. Each knoll sat still in the stagnant surroundings. Around every corner, History concealed itself. It hid there, waiting to be reawakened in the corners of battlefields, plantations, and in the meadows of bullets and other trinkets of war.
Here, in Franklin, Tennessee, specters of the past haunted each acre. I was visiting this bleak place and I wondered at its foreign atmosphere. My location was one of the old genteel-like plantations. It stood two stories high with a baronial terrace that stretched from one end to the other, on both levels. It was whitewashed, with eight paned windows and a single teal door. Two chimneys stood as bookends to the southern mansion.
I arrived just in time for the tour to begin. Our guide was a woman, over forty, under sixty, and well-rehearsed in her occupation. We were seated on the lower porch, on wooden benches that matched the door, to hear the rules: do not touch anything, respect the building and it’s past, and other basic guidelines one always receives at events such as these.
We began the tour with the grounds; a literal battlefield, where the Union and Confederate ghosts struggled in a macabre reel before my eyes. Among the buildings on the property was the slave quarters; slightly decayed over time, yet still vibrant with the memory of an African slave culture. My imagination was overpowered with images and realizations of our history. I was hardly able to grasp the hundreds of lives that this single place had altered and the paths it had changed.
There was an extravagant garden, surrounded by a white picket fence. In the center stood a monumental tree that looked out over the estate. It was altogether possible that this arbor was a spectator to the Second Battle of Franklin. And if that tree did not recall the conflict, the old house most assuredly did. For it’s eyes saw more of blood and death than the tree’s eyes ever could.
As I entered the home, my hopes faltered, but only slightly, at the hall that seemed less than lavish. I had imagined the grand halls of Tara and 12 Oaks, but Gone With the Wind was hardly an accurate chronicling. The gentlewoman guided us through the McGavock family history and recreated the battle’s movements for our minds to review. There was talk of ghosts and haunted houses, and for the first time in my life, I entertained the idea for a while. There was no difficulty in this, for as we mounted the stairs to the upper level, I saw two medical personnel carrying the battered body of Johnny Reb to a room, somewhere beyond me. It was a curious feeling, being so close to the past.
Around the corner, in an elegant bed chamber, we stopped. The atmosphere was solemn. This house,
rather the entire estate, had served as a make-shift hospital for the Confederate wounded. On the other side of the bed – or should I say operating table- was a stain. Crimson and in the shape of agony, it lay flat against the wooden floor. A three-dimensional phantasm of life and death. I scanned the wood and my heart beat louder with each blood-tinged finding. “This was where miscellaneous appendages were piled after amputation,” recited our guide with cold nonchalance. The specters I had seen returned, and I could hear them shouting orders for medical supplies, and then cursing under their breath when the things they needed could not be found. Yet my eyes remained fixed on the stain, the blood mark, the memory of which will not soon depart from me.
In these rooms, history had been given life and Johnny Reb a name. Facts and figures were given faces and the songs of war rang anew. Even the phantoms and shadows of someone else’s life, long deceased in this deep south, were resurrected. I had seen the past, and it was not as it is described in the text books. It was real.